Q: Is this press suitable for rifle calibers?
A: Yes, it can handle both rifle and pistol calibers.
Q: What is the maximum cartridge length that can be used in this press?
A: This press can handle cartridges up to 4".
Q: What is this press made of?
A: The press frame is cast iron.
Q: I need a new turret for my early T-Mag press. Will the current turrets work on this?
A: As long as it is a T-Mag press, the current turrets will work however the old turrets will not work on the new T-Mag II press. We no longer have turrets available for any of the older presses.
Q: Can dies from other manufacturers be used in your presses?
A: Yes, the Lyman presses will accept any of the standard 7/8" x 14 dies.
Q: What is the maximum cartridge length for this press?
A: This press can handle cartridges up to 4".
Q: What is this press made of?
A: The press frame is cast iron.
Q: Is there anything else I need to begin reloading other than what the kit includes?
A: If you purchased the standard kits, all you would need to start off is the correct dies and shellholder for the caliber you will be loading.
Q: How do I seat primers on this press?
A: We recommend using the Ram Prime Die to seat primers.
Q: Can this press be used both by hand and bench mounted?
A: The press comes ready to be bench mounted. It can be converted to hand-held use by reversing the handle.
Q: What dies do I need for the Tru-Line Jr press?
A: We recommend the 310 dies, as these have the same thread. These will only neck-size, not full-length resize.
Q: Should I use a 3 die pistol set or a 4 die set?
A: We recommend using a 4 die set when loading for a semi-auto as this would include a taper crimp die which is best for feeding. The 4 die set will include the powder thru expanding die instead of the standard "m" die. This will save you a step by enabling you to mount a powder measure to the top of the die.
Q: How do I know if I have a taper crimp die or a roll crimp die?
A: The taper crimp die will be stamped as "Taper Crimp" on the die body. The seating die is always a roll crimp die. These are separate dies as you do not want to taper crimp while seating the bullet-this would shave the bullet. When using the taper crimp, first use the seat/roll crimp die and back off on the die enough so that it will only seat, not crimp. Next, using your taper crimp die, crimp as needed.
Q: I have a Lyman pistol die set. How do I find out if the sizing die is steel or carbide?
A: Look at the stamp on the side of the die. If there is a "TC" stamped on it, it is carbide, otherwise it is a steel die which would require the cases be lubed prior to sizing.
Q: Do I need to purchase one separately when I buy a three die set?
A: No, all 3-die sets have one included.
Q: Do you recommend buying one separately since you only have two die sets in
most bottleneck cartridge calibers?
A: We recommend purchasing an "m" die if you will be seating cast bullets.
Q: What is the thread size of these dies?
A: These are .609" x 30.
Q: Are the 310 dies interchangeable between Large and Small handles?
A: No. 310 dies will vary in length, so they need to use the correct size handle.
Q: Can I use another brand of dies in the 310 handles?
A: No, the 310 dies & handles are a special thread that will not interchange with any dies of any manufacturer other than the 310 dies.
Q: How do I convert these to a standard 7/8 X 14 press?
A: Use a 7/8 X 14 adapter, part number 7392036.
Q: Can I use this for full length sizing?
A: These dies will only neck size.
Q: What kind of decapping pins do these dies use?
A: The same as the standard dies, part number 7837786 (10 pack).
Q: Can these dies be used in older presses?
A: Yes, these can be used in the Tru-Line Jr. Press.
MULTI-EXPAND POWDER CHARGE DIE
Q: Can I use this for rifle calibers?
A: No, this was only designed for some pistol calibers only.
Q: What calibers will this work with?
A: It will handle cases from 22 caliber to 45 caliber, as long as they are not over .515" in diameter.
Q: Is there a primer feed available for this tool?
A: No, this is designed for one at a time remote primer seating.
Q: Will these shellholders work in any of the other brand presses?
A: Yes, any brand press that uses standard snap-in shellholders.
Q: Can I use these in any of the older presses, such as the Tru-Line Jr., Comet, All American etc.?
A: What you would need is a Shellholder Adapter (part number 7095762) which will
convert the press to use the new style shellholders. If you are also seating the primers
in the press, we would also recommend a Spec T Priming Punch (part number 7095763)
as the primer seater which originally came with the press will not be suitable. You will
also be unable to use a primer feed with this.
Q: How do I change the cutterhead on this, the motor spins when I try to turn it?
A: Hold the brush at the other end of the trimmer when you unscrew the cutterhead.
Q: Will the Outside Neck Turner work on the Power Trimmer?
A: No, it was designed only for the manual trimmers.
Q: What length of case can I use in this trimmer?
A: The Power Trimmer will hold cases up to 3 1/16" in length.
Q: How do I adjust the stop?
A: Set the stop on the drill press itself.
Q: Do pilots come with the trimmer?
A: This is the only model where the pilots are not included.
Q: For what purpose is the Drill Press Trimmer recommended?
A: The Drill Press Trimmer is designed for high volume reloaders. It uses the power and speed of a drill press to quickly trim brass.
Q: When do I know if my cases need to be trimmed?
A: Check your handbook for the maximum dimension of the caliber cases you are reloading. Measure the cases with a caliper. If any are longer than the max dimension, it is time to trim the lot back to the trim-to length. Be sure to measure and trim only after the cases have been sized in the sizing die.
Q: My trimmer is no longer trimming properly, what can be the problem?
A: More than likely, you are in need of a replacement cutter head. We have these available in both a two-pack and in carbide.
Q: I am having trouble with the cases not being evenly trimmed, what could be the
problem?
A: Once you put your case into the chuckhead, do not lock it into place until you slide the case mouth over the pilot. This will ensure uniform trimming.
Q: My cases are varying slightly after trimming is there something wrong with my trimmer?
A: This would be caused by inconsistent pressure being used while trimming. Use consistent pressure on each case and this will eliminate the problem.
Q: What calibers can I trim in this?
A: Cases from the 22 Hornet up to the 460 Weatherby Mag can be trimmed.
Q: My cases are sticking onto the pilot. What could be causing this?
A: This could be caused from roll-over of the case mouth if the pilot is not fully seated into the cutterhead. Another cause could be a dull cutter in need of replacing.
Q: Do I need a separate collet for this as it does not have a chuckhead?
A: The Accutrimmer uses the standard shellholder to hold the case into position.
Q: What length of case can I trim in the Accutrimmer?
A: Cases from the 22 Hornet up to the 460 Weatherby Mag can be trimmed.
Q: Can I use this to trim other calibers?
A: No, this was developed to trim only the 50 BMG.
Q: Can I use this on an Accutrimmer?
A: No, it is designed strictly for the Universal Case Trimmer.
Q: Do you have an inside neck reamer available?
A: No, we have only the Outside Neck Turner. The neck of the case will be more consistently uniformed from the outside.
Q: I already have an electric screwdriver. Can I purchase the bits separately?
A: Yes, we have the Power Deburr Accessory Kit which includes all the bits and adapters. These will fit into any ¼" hex electric screwdriver.
Q: What calibers will this work with?
A: This will work with calibers from 17 through 45 caliber.
Q: How do I use this on my trimmer?
A: This comes with an adapter to screw into the Universal or Accutrimmer shaft. Simply remove the cutterhead and screw in the adapter. The reamers and cleaners will then fit into this adapter. The other item, the case centering adapter, fits into either the chuckhead (Universal) or a #2 shellholder (Accutrimmer). The case mouth is placed over the centering adapter and the primer pocket faces the reamer or cleaner.
Simply turn the trimmer handle to ream and clean the primer pockets.
Q: I would have thought some other popular calibers would be included, why aren’t they?
A: Due to the size of the tool, we had to choose between fitting more onto the gauge or
including others.
UNIVERSAL INSIDE/OUTSIDE DEBURR TOOL
Q: What calibers will this work with?
A: This will work with 22 to 45 caliber.
Q: Can this be used for pistol cases?
A: No, it is only recommended for rifle cases, as pistol primer pockets are a different dimension.
Q: What is the caliber range this tool will work with?
A: This will work with 22 to 45 caliber.
Q: How do I adjust for different case lengths?
A: The Uniformer has an adjustable case stop that is moved up or down for various length cases.
Q: How does this work?
A: This takes the place of the cutterhead on your Universal or Accutrimmer. Place the case into position, open the blade to line up on the outside of your case mouth, then turn the trimmer handle and you are simultaneously chamfering and deburring your case mouths.
Q: How can I tell if I have too much or too little lube on my cases?
A: Too much lube will cause dents in the cases when they are being resized. Too little lube will cause the cases to stick in the sizing dies.
Q: Where do I find replacement batteries for my electronic caliper and what size do I need?
A: The caliper uses readily available calculator batteries, Eveready size S76E.
Q: Where do I find replacement batteries for my electronic micrometer and what size do I need?
A: The caliper uses readily available calculator batteries, Eveready size S76E.
Q: Why would I need a Case Neck Dipper?
A: This enables you to lubricate the inside of the case neck with mica. This will extend the life of the case by reducing the friction caused by pulling the expander button through the case neck during the resizing operation.
Q: What calibers can I use this for?
A: This will work with calibers from 22 to 45.
Q: This isn’t marking the inside of my primer pocket, can this be right?
A: This is only going to remove excessive fouling, it will not change or modify the
primer pocket in any way.
Q: This is not affecting the depth of my primer pocket, should it be?
A: No, this will only ream the sides of the primer pocket, removing the military crimp
to enable you to seat primers in used military cases.
Q: What is the advantage of using a spray versus a lube pad?
A: Speed. Many cases are lubed at one time quickly and easily.
Q: Why is the collet split?
A: To allow a variety of cases to fit in the Bullet Puller.
Q: What calibers can I use this with?
A: Any from 22 to 45 caliber. Heavy bullets will come out easier as they have more inertia to pull them from the case.
Q: What size tumbler should I purchase?
A: Select the tumbler according to the number of cases you will be tumbling each time. The tumbler will run much better and efficiently when always used at maximum capacity.
Q: What media do you recommend for cleaning cases?
A: Treated corncob is recommended for normal use, the Tufnut is recommended for extremely fouled cases as it is more abrasive. Please note that the Tufnut may leave a rouge residue on the cases. This will not cause any harm to the gun or cases.
Q: How long should I run the machine?
A: Generally, it will only take two hours or so to polish the brass, this will vary with the condition of the media. It will take longer as the media breaks down and wears out. Always tumble with the tumbler lid on, as the heat generated will more quickly and efficiently result in a better polish.
Q: My tumbler bowl is quite dirty. What can I do to clean it?
A: The bowl will get quite dirty with a lot of use. The best thing to use to clean it somewhat is Armor-All cleaner on the outside only. There is nothing available that is suitable or necessary to clean the inside of the bowl.
Q: I am getting some static electricity in my bowl, what can I do to eliminate this?
A: Wipe the bowl with a clothes dryer sheet, like Bounce. This should remedy the problem.
Q: I recently replaced the bowl assembly on my 1200 tumbler. I replaced the center stem when I did this. Now my tumbler is not vibrating, it is only humming, what did I do wrong?
A: It is likely that the stem was screwed down too far and is binding up the motor. Try backing off the stem a half turn or so and this should free up the motor.
Q: Can I tumble loaded ammo?
A: No, this can be very dangerous. Tumbling loaded ammo can break down the powder causing extreme pressure problems.
Q: How do I separate the cases from the media after polishing?
A: If you are using a standard model, we have the Turbo Sifter, if you are using the Auto Flo tumbler, simply remove the drain plug while the tumbler is running. This will drain the media away from the cases. Be sure to place the drain pan beneath the spout while this is draining, turning the pan as needed to keep from spilling over the sides.
Q: Can I polish jewelry in the tumbler?
A: Yes, although do not polish jewelry with stones that are set. The tumblers can be used to polish any non-ferrous metal.
Q: Can I tumble shot shell cases?
A: Yes, however it will only polish the brass heads, it will not clean the plastic portion of the shells.
Q: I am looking for an industrial type tumbler for high volume polishing and/or metal finishing. Do you have any models suitable for this?
A: Lyman does not have any industrial type models, but we do have a division which specializes in this type of units. We would suggest checking out www.raytech-ind.com.
Q: How much media should I use for the tumbler?
A: It is always best to run your tumbler at maximum capacity. The chart on the website or in your instruction book will indicate the correct media charge. A good rule of thumb for best results is to use media at 60% by volume to cases (40% by volume).
Q: How long does the media last?
A: It will last 10 to 15 uses depending upon how dirty the cases are.
Q: My media is getting quite dusty. How can I keep the dust down?
A: Add a few drops of baby oil to the media and run it to evenly distribute. Older media which is becoming dusty will indicate that the media is wearing out.
Q: What types of reactivators do you recommend for the media and what can I expect from them?
A: Either our Media Reactivator or Turbo Brite can be used. Both will allow used media to have a longer life.
Q: I am experiencing some clumping in the media. What caused this and how do I solve the problem?
A: Clumping would be caused from moisture. Somehow the media is too wet, either by an additive being used or by humidity. Spread the media out on some newspapers in a dry area until it dries out. This will remedy the problem. The clumping will go away if you simply tumble the media for an hour.
Q: How long will the media last?
A: It will last 10 to 15 uses, depending upon how dirty the cases are.
Q: What type of reactivator do you recommend for the Tufnut media and what can I expect from them?
A: We recommend only using our Turbo Brite brass polish with the Tufnut media.
Q: Do I add this to media?
A: No, this is used by itself. The cases are placed in a container and the Case Cleaner is poured over them. It only takes several minutes to work. Cases should not be left in over 5 minutes.
Q: How much do I use per pound of media?
A: Use 1 Tablespoon per pound of media.
TURBO CHARGER MEDIA REACTIVATOR
Q: How much do I use per pound of media?
A: Use 1 ounce per 2 pounds of media. We do not recommend using the Turbo Charger Reactivator with the Tufnut media, only with the Corncob media.
Q: Will moly coated bullets change velocity and pressure?
A: Moly coated bullets will decrease friction, so they will generally lower velocities and pressures somewhat versus the same load using uncoated bullets. We have found, however, that the amount of change will vary from caliber to caliber, gun to gun, load to load, etc. It is safe to use existing load data developed with uncoated bullets with moly coated bullets, but not the other way around.
Q: Will moly be taken out of the barrel during cleaning?
A: No. You may see excessive moly on your cleaning patches, but moly will not be completely removed.
Q: What is Super-Fine Grade Moly?
A: Moly is commonly available in three grades. These are Super-fine, Technical-fine, and Technical. The finer the moly is, the better it works. Lyman uses Super-fine Grade Moly in this kit, which has a median particle size of 1.5 microns. It is much more expensive than the other grades, but works the best. Technical-fine has a median particle size of 6 microns and Technical is 30 microns.
Q: Should moly coated bullets be waxed?
A: Some shooters coat moly bullets with carnauba wax after they are moly coated. Some claims have been made that the wax coating can add to barrel life. The main purpose, however, is to keep your fingers clean while handling moly coated bullets. Since our Super-Fine grade moly coats so very well, little rub-off occurs during handling. We therefore feel that the time and expense of wax coating is unneccessary.
Q: What if bullets are difficult to moly coat?
If moly does not seem to be adhering well to the bullets, they may need to be degreased. Any oils, including those from your fingers can prevent moly from adhering to the bullet.
Bullets can be degreased with alcohol or by tumbling them in clean, untreated corn cob media.
Q: Can nylon tipped bullets be moly coated?
A: Yes, the moly coating process will not damage the nylon tips.
Q: Do I moly coat cast bullets before or after sizing and lubing?
A: Cast bullets should be sized without lubing, and then moly coated. The moly coated bullets can then be lubed normally.
Q: I am having trouble coating some jacketed bullets. I coated cast bullets without a problem. Am I doing something wrong?
A: Lead and jacketed bullets should not be tumble coated in the same bowl. Once lead bullets are used, the bowl and media are contaminated with lead residue and will no longer moly coat jacketed bullets properly. This contamination can also be caused by jacketed bullets with large areas of exposed lead tips. It is recommended that separate bowls be used for lead and jacketed bullets. There is no way to decontaminate either the bowl or the media once lead has been introduced.
Q: How much do I use?
A: Moly Bore Cream is applied with a patch. Use enough to saturate the patch and run it through the bore repeatedly.
Q: How can I tell if I need more?
A: Barrels should be retreated after cleaning.
Q: How do I remove it?
A: Moly gets into the bores of steel and is difficult to remove completely. A good bore solvent and scrubbing with a bore brush will remove most of the moly.
Q: Does this work as well as moly tumble coating?
A: Yes, it is just as effective.
Q: Can the moly spray be used as a mould release?
A: Yes it works very well for this.
Q: How does the Ceramic media differ from Steel shot?
A: Ceramic is a hard, smooth material that works very well for moly coating. It is slightly faster than steel shot and less costly.
Q: My electronic scale seems to fluctuate occasionally, what can be causing this?
A: An electronic scale’s variance will be much more noticeable than with a beam scale, as the numbers are right there. Any fluctuation can be caused by air currents, vibrations in the room, temperature and humidity. Always use the scale indoors and away from air currents. Do not use electronic tricklers with the scale, as this will cause the readings to vary.
Q: I just took my scale out to use it again, it is not weighing correctly, what could have caused this?
A: You will want to calibrate your scale each time you use it for the first time in a reloading session. If the scale has been moved to a room with a different temperature, let the scale stabilize to its new environment for a half hour before zeroing and calibrating.
Q: How do I calibrate my scale?
A: Calibrating the electronic scales is done as follows:
Do not calibrate the scale with the powder pan on the platform, as this will cause incorrect programming.
Be sure the scale is in grain mode. If it is in gram mode, there will be a small "g" in the lower right corner. No letter will appear if the scale is in grain mode.
Press the Zero key – the scale will read zero.
Remove the 50 gram calibration weight from the storage compartment located on the left rear of the scale.
Place the 50 gram calibration weight on the scale platform. The scale should read between 771.5 to 771.7 grains.
Press the CAL key until the display shows CAB. (Early models showed CAB 5.3). Then release the button. The scale is now calibrated. The display should now read between 771.5 to 771.7 grains.
Remove the calibration weight and the scale is ready for use. If you will be weighing powder, place the powder pan on the scale and press Zero, to tare out the weight of the pan.
Do not calibrate the scale with the powder pan on the platform, as this will cause incorrect programming.
With nothing on the platform, press the ON key and wait a few seconds while the scale finds zero.
Press the Zero key if any reading other than zero is shown.
Place the calibration weight on the scale platform (30 gram for LE 500, 20 gram for LE 300). Simultaneously press the MODE and OFF keys until CAB appears, then release the keys. The scale will read approximately 463.0 grains for the LE 500 or 308.6 grains for the LE 300. Remove the calibration weight from the platform and the scale will return to zero.
The scale can now be used for weighing. If a powder pan is to be used, place it on the platform and press the Zero key. This removes the weight of the pan from any scale readings.
Repeat the calibration procedure if the scale is moved and at the beginning of each weighing session. Re-zero the scale as needed during use if the display does not return to zero.
Q: My LE 500 scale is now reading EE, what do I do?
A: This can happen on occasion if the scale has been shifted out of its working range. The following procedure can also be used for the LE 300 scale.
Press Off and Zero simultaneously. The display will show IN, meaning input. You will be able to input the information needed to get the scale back to its normal function.
Press Off and Zero simultaneously a second time, a number will appear that will count down and eventually stop.
Press Zero and the scale will display zero.
Place the calibration weight onto the scale and press Off and Mode simultaneously until CAb appears on the display. A number will then appear, but not the actual weight of the calibration weight.
Remove the calibration weight from the scale and turn off the scale to get out of the input function. The scale now can be turned back on and should be calibrated normally. At this point, you should be back in business.
If this procedure does not work the first time, we suggest you keep trying. Sometimes it takes a few tries to return the scale to original functioning.
Q: My Autoscale is not shutting off at the proper setting. What am I doing wrong?
A: There are a few things you can check for. First, be sure the scale is level to begin with, it is a good idea to put a level on the top of the scale and adjust the feet until it is level. Be sure you are using only extruded (stick) powder. This scale will bind up and throw inconsistent charges with ball or flake powders. You will also want to check to be certain the pivot wire on the beam stays in the "v" grooves during dispensing. Another cause of over shooting is the lighting in the room. Try moving the scale to other areas of the room. We have found that some lighting can affect the photo optic sensors in the scale. Be careful not to hit the powder dispensing tubes when you remove the pan. This can inadvertently cause additional grains to fall into your pan. Lastly, when all else fails, simply adjust the fast tube shut off to stop sooner. This should be set to stop at least ¼ to ½ inch before zero.
Q: Do you make repairs to the old AMT scales?
A: Yes we can repair the AMT scales. We will notify you via mail of any charges.
Q: My scale is not zeroing. What can I be doing wrong?
A: Be sure the pan is on the scale and both poises are set at zero.
Q: Can my model 500 scale be converted to a 1000 scale?
A: No, the scale has a completely different beam than the model 1000 scale has.
Q: My scale is not zeroing. What can I be doing wrong?
A: Be sure the pan is on the scale and both poises are set at zero. Also, do not attach the counter weight to the beam when zeroing the scale. The counter weight is only used when weighing charges or bullets over 500 grains.
Q: My counter weight does not weigh 500 grains, is this correct?
A: This is a lesser weight as it is calibrated to the end of the beam. It actually weighs
approximately 260 grains, depending on the scale.
Q: How does the Pro Scale differ from the standard Model 500?
A: The body of the scale is made from high impact styrene.
Q: Will this affect the accuracy of the scale?
A: Not in any way.
Q: My counter weight does not weigh 500 grains, is this correct?
A: This is a lesser weight as it is calibrated to the end of the beam. It actually weighs
approximately 260 grains, depending on the scale.
Q: Can I have the scale converted to weighing powder?
A. No, this scale has been calibrated to weighing arrows and shafts only, the scale would need a whole new beam and leveling assembly, it would be less expensive purchasing a different scale to weigh powder.
Q: Can I use this to load black powder?
A: Due to the instability of black powder particularly with static electricity, we recommend using the Model 55 Classic for this as it has an aluminum reservoir.
Q: I have an early model of the 55 Powder Measure, can I still get parts for it?
A: Some parts are still available. Any parts that are part of the metering cylinder assembly including the handle, we recommend sending the powder measure in to us for repair as over the years the parts have changed. Also we no longer have reservoirs available in the threaded style.
Q: Do the lines on the metering cylinder assembly relate to specific powder charges?
A: No, these are simply there to be used for your reference.
MODEL 55 CLASSIC POWDER MEASURE
Q: Can I really fit more powder in my cases for black powder cartridge reloading?
A: Yes, the 24" drop tube used with the Classic Powder Measure allows the black powder to compress into the case. This promotes better ignition.
Q: My Mag 20 furnace is leaking from the spout. How do I clean it?
A: Completely drain the pot and allow it to cool. Remove the shut-off rod and clean the end with steel wool. The spout can be cleaned out with a paper clip.
Q: Do the numbers on the temperature dial refer to any specific temperature?
A: The numbers are simply a reference point for you when casting.
Q: What is the max temperature of this furnace?
A: Between 800 to 850 degrees.
Q: Does this furnace have an adjustable thermostat?
A: No, this has been preset for you and is not adjustable.
Q: I have a model 45 lube sizer. Will the current sizing dies and top punches work with this?
A: Yes, the current ones will work on your early 45 sizer.
Q: Can I use this for the old style 45 sizer?
A: No, this will only fit onto the 450 models and the RCBS model.
Q: What temperature will this heat to?
A: The heater will heat the lube sizer to between 120 and 130 degrees.
Q: Can I use this for the old style 45 sizer?
A: There are no mounting holes drilled for the 45, however you can drill into it as long as you stay away from the heating element-this goes in straight from the cord.
Q: Can you recommend a particular bullet lubricant for a given application?
A: Each lube is recommended for different purposes as follows:
Super Moly Bullet Lube: All purpose, high temperature lubricant. Has Molybdenum Disulfide added for increased velocity. Works in lubricator/sizers without a heater. Recommended for any shooting situation.
Black Powder Gold Lube: Specifically formulated for black powder shooting. It has a high melting temperature which makes it ideal for long range shooting. This does not require a heater when sizing and lubricating.
Orange Magic Lube: Great lubricant for high velocities with lead bullets. It has a low smoke output which makes it perfect for rapid fire pistol shooting. Recommended for use with a lube heater.
Alox Lube: Best all around to 2000 fps. Made up of 50% Alox and 50% Beeswax. This is the standard NRA formula.
Ideal Lube: Best for low velocity pistol shooting to 1200 fps.
Q: What is the composition for #2 Alloy?
A: This is made up of 90% lead, 5% tin, and 5% antimony.
Q: How do I make #2 Alloy?
A: To make 10 pound of #2 Alloy, use either of the following recipes:
9 pounds of wheelweights + 1 pound of 50/50 (lead/tin) bar solder
or
4 pounds of Linotype +1 pound of 50/50 bar solder + 5 pounds pure lead
Q: Where do I find lead alloys in my area?
A: Check with your local gun shop for sources or contact a local foundry.
Q: I understand Marvelux is a recommended fluxing agent for casting. Where can I obtain it?
A: Marvelux can be purchased from Brownells. Their website is www.brownells.com
Q: How often should I flux my alloy?
A: Alloys should be fluxed whenever the surface is not mirror-bright or has impurities floating on the surface.
Q: How do I know if my bullet is designed to use gas checks?
A: The bullets which will require gas checks are recessed for them.
Q: Can I put a gas check on a bullet which was not designed for one?
A: No, we do not recommend doing this.
Q: Do I have to install a gas check if the bullet is designed for one?
A: Not necessarily. If you will be keeping the velocities very low, you can get away without one. Remember, using a gas check will reduce leading and improve accuracy of the bullet.
Q: I am getting excessive leading in my revolver early in the barrel. What causes this?
A: This is likely caused from a bullet being sized too small for your particular gun.
Q: Can I shoot my pistol/rifle bullets as-cast?
A: No, these will cast slightly larger than recommended and are designed to be sized down for proper fit.
Q: What is the maximum amount a cast bullet can be sized?
A: We do not recommend sizing down more than .002" to .003" as this will cause severe deformity to the bullet, causing decreased accuracy.
Q: I have one of your hollow base bullet moulds. When do I remove the hollow base plug, before or after opening the mould?
A: This should be removed prior to opening the block.
Q: Can I use mould handles from other manufacturers on your moulds?
A: Sorry, these are not interchangeable with others. The use of other manufacturer’s handles will damage the alignment of the mould blocks.
Q: What do the numbers and letters on the block halves stand for?
A: Each mould block is stamped of course with the bullet number it will cast. The letters following this number are our reference which tells us exactly which cherry was used. This also tells us its vintage. There are block numbers, each mould will have the same numbers stamped on both halves. This matches up the mould halves in case they are separated.
Q: What is the proper way to measure a cast bullet diameter?
A: It is most accurate to use a micrometer to determine the diameter.
Q: I have lost the hollow base (or point) plug from my mould. Can I buy one separately?
A: We will need to have the mould returned to us as each plug is hand fit to each block.
Q: My mould is casting a couple grains lighter than what is indicated on the charts. What can cause this?
A: This can occur if there are air bubbles in the bullets or if they have not fully filled out. Weights can also vary if casting temperatures vary. The moulds do have a +/- tolerance of 5% as all alloys will not produce the same bullet weight.
Q: How can I tell if my mould blocks are too cold or too hot?
A: If the bullets are dropping out wrinkled, they are too cool. If the bullets have a frosted appearance, the mould is too hot.
Q: If I cast bullets with something other than #2 alloy, how will this affect my bullets?
A: Wheelweights will produce bullets weighing more and casting smaller than with #2 alloy. Bullets cast in linotype will be a larger diameter but weigh less.
Q: I don’t see the mould I want on your website. Do you still make any of the obsolete moulds?
A: All the moulds currently available are included on the website. The best source for acquiring the old moulds would be the company listed below. They specialize in locating old moulds. Please contact:
M&P Cast Bullets
44 Martel Way
Brattleboro, VT 05301
802-254-5296
Q: Do you make custom moulds?
A: We do not currently make custom moulds, however we would recommend contacting:
Ballard Moulds
Box 298
Clancy, MT 59634
406-933-8217
NEI Handtools, Inc
51583 Columbia River Highway
Scappoose, OR 97056
503-543-6776
Q: Is there anything I can do to make the bullets harder?
A: Cast bullets can be heat treated to increase their hardness providing your alloy has some antimony present. To heat treat your bullets:
Cast your bullets in the normal manner, saving several scrap bullets. Size your bullets but do not lubricate them.
Place several scrap bullets on a pan in your oven at 450 degrees and increase the temperature until the bullets start to melt or slump. Be sure to use an accurate oven thermometer and a pan that will not be used again for food.
Once the bullets start to melt or slump, back off the temperature about 5 to 10 degrees and slide in your first batch of good bullets. Leave these in the oven for a half hour. Remove the bullets from the oven and plunge them into cool water. Allow them to cool thoroughly. When you are ready to lubricate, install a sizing die .001" larger than the one used to initially size them. This will prevent the sides of the bullets from work-softening from contact with the sizing die.
Next apply gas checks if required and lubricate. These are now ready for loading.
Q: Do your current top punches and sizing dies fit the old 45 lube/sizer?
A: Yes, they will fit the 45 as well as the RCBS lube/sizer.
Q: How do I determine the proper sizing die for my particular gun?
A: We recommend slugging the barrel. Select a sizing die that is .001" over your groove diameter.
Q: How do I slug my barrel?
A: Slugging is done by driving a soft pure lead slug through the barrel and measuring the raised grooves present on the slug. A lead round ball used for muzzle loading that is slightly larger than your caliber can be used for this.
Q: I have run my bullets through the sizing die, however they do not come out at the expected diameter. These were cast in wheelweights, would that make a difference?
A: Yes, bullets cast for instance in pure lead or wheelweights will come out smaller, bullets cast in linotype will come out larger. This is due to the spring-back of the bullets being sized. The sizing dies are made to produce the diameters using #2 alloy.
Q: I am looking for sizing dies and top punches for my muzzle loading conical bullets. I don’t see them in your chart. Do you have them?
A: Actually we do not recommend sizing these bullets. They should be shot as cast. Lubing should be done by hand.
Q: How do I determine whether I need the large or small mould handles for my mould?
A: The large handles will work with any of our current single or double cavity moulds. The small will only be used with early 1" x 1.2"single cavity moulds.
Q: How do I seat gas checks?
A: Gas checks are pressed onto the bullet base either by hand or on the 450 with a gas check seater. The bullet is then run through the sizing die as normal.
Q: Are the current gas checks crimp or press fit?
A: Our gas checks are all a crimp-on style, with the exception of the 41 caliber, which is a press-fit.
MORE INFORMATION
Q: Can you recommend a decent and informative website for people interested in bullet casting?
A: There are so many available on the internet, however one we have found to be very informative is: www.castboolits.gunloads.com
Q: I have worn out one of the new bits. Can I purchase just one separately?
A: These are only available in sets. The shopping cart lists each of the sets available, it is a much better deal than buying individual replacement bits.
Q: I don’t understand why my averages are coming out low. What am I doing wrong?
A: Only press the Ready button when you are going to take a reading. If you do not take a reading and press the Ready button again, this will add a zero reading to your average.
Q: Where are the Lyman rifles made?
A: These are made in Italy, by Investarm.
Q: What are the stocks made of?
A: These are European Walnut.
Q: What is the thread size of the nipples?
A: These are 6 x .75mm. The touch hole liner (for flintlocks) is the same.
Q: I have a Great Plains Rifle. Can I just purchase the Hunter barrel to convert it to shooting conical bullets?
A: Yes, the stocks are the same. The new barrel will come with a matched tang which will need to replace your existing tang on the rifle.
Q: Can I convert my rifle from percussion or flint?
A: No, this will require modification to the stock which cannot be converted back to its original condition. You would also need to purchase a new lock assembly and barrel. It actually would be less expensive to purchase a new rifle.
Q: Can I use musket nipples on my rifle?
A: No, we do not recommend the use of musket nipples on our rifles.
Q: What size cap do I use?
A: All our percussion rifles use a #11 cap.
Q: My Great Plains Rifle came with two wedges. One is slightly longer than the other. Should it be?
A: Yes, the longer wedge will go into the rear, the shorter wedge fits into the front.
Q: My Great Plains rifle shoots low at 50 yards. What do I do?
A: The Great Plains and Trade rifles come with a blade type front sight which you can file gradually to raise the bullet impact.
Q: Can I shoot Pyrodex in my Lyman rifle?
A: Yes, you can use either Pyrodex RS or Pyrodex Select by volume. We do not recommend using the pellets however, as this will cause ignition problems.
Q: Do the wedges go into the rifle from left to right or from right to left?
A: They are installed from the right to the left. This is true for both right and left handed rifles.
Q: I am looking for scope mounts for my Deerstalker rifle. Where do I go for these?
A: We recommend contacting:
Quickee Mounts
501 South F
Hugo, OK 74743
Q: How do I know the direction to move a sight to correct the bullet impact?
A: To move the bullet impact to the left, either move the rear sight to the left or the front sight to the right. To move the bullet impact to the right, move the rear sight to the right, or the front sight to the left. To elevate the bullet impact, elevate the rear sight or lower the front sight. To lower the bullet impact, either lower the rear sight or elevate the front sight.
Q: How do I determine which front sight I need?
A: First take some measurements. You will need the amount of impact deviation from the target in inches, the range you are shooting (again in inches), and the sight radius (the distance between the front and rear sight) in inches.
Take the impact deviation figure and divide by the range. Multiply this number by the sight radius and this number will be the amount you will need to raise or lower the front or rear sight.
Q: What are the click adjustments on the receiver sights?
A: These are ¼ minute clicks.
Q: Can I have target knobs installed on my receiver sight?
A: Unfortunately we do not recommend converting the sight to target knobs as this will damage the slide beyond repair in the process.
Q: I have lost the apertures for my older receiver sight. Are replacements available?
A: Yes, these should be threaded the same as the current sights. We have both a hunting aperture, ½ x .093 and a target aperture, 5/8 x .040 available.
Q: Do you have any older sights or sights available for models not included on your website?
A: All the sights and their recommended applications are included on the website.
Q: I need a receiver sight (or parts) which are no longer available from you. Can you recommend a source for these?
A: We do have a few sources for the obsolete sights and parts. They are as follows:
Nick Stroebel Gunsights
PO Box 808
Mountainair, NM 87036
Gary Fellers
3249 Marie Lane
Fort Worth, TX 76123
817-346-9633
Phillip Stewart
1007 Howard Street
Mount Vernon, OH 43050
740-393-0704
Q: I have an old All American Scope which is in need of repair. Where do I send it?
A: Lyman has not manufactured scopes for quite some time. We have sold the last of our parts and fixtures to a company in Ohio, who is currently making repairs to the scopes. We would recommend you contact them directly at:
2213 Smith Road
PO Box 192
Ross, OH 45061
513-867-0820
Q: What is the hardness of these bullets?
A: These are approximately 10 BHN.
Q: What are the diameters of these?
A: 45 caliber bullets are .459", 40 caliber bullets are .409".
Q: What is the lube used on these bullets?
A: Lyman’s Black Powder Gold bullet lube is used.
Q: Do you have moulds available in these designs?
A: Yes, all are available in our mould line.
Q: What are the bullets made of?
A: These are pure lead.
Q: What are the diameters of the Sabot bullets?
A: These are .451".
Q: What is the lube used on the Shocker bullets?
A: It is our Black Powder Gold bullet lube.
Q: Are moulds available in these designs?
A: Sorry, these are not available in moulds.